ASIANOW - City Guide - Beijing

Beijing often struggles with its identity and role as an international capital. On the culinary front, it's winning the battle. While there are still no African or Middle Eastern restaurants, the variety of both its international cuisines and its indigenous fare is excellent.

For those travelers whose itineraries will take them only to Beijing, visit different areas of China via the food that defines each region. If your palate can handle it, go for the fiery Sichuan cuisine (the best outside of Sichuan Province). If you prefer the milder taste of Cantonese, sample dim sum at one of the many restaurants that serve several different types of Chinese cuisine. Do try a restaurant specializing in Beijing duck, but go easy - fatty duck meat often makes first-timers ill. In choosing a place to eat, this rule of thumb works for the Chinese, so it can work for you too: If the restaurant is crowded at meal times, it must be good.

Generally, lunch is served 11 am-2 pm, then restaurants close 2-5 or 6 pm and reopen for dinner 6-10 pm. A few places stay open straight through, 11 am-10 pm. Apart from some clubs, few remain open later. Less expensive restaurants almost never have English speakers. (If they do, the price will be higher.) For the restaurants below, reservations can be made in English, but any questions will probably have to be asked in Mandarin. Usually reservations are not required unless you have more than five people in your party or on Chinese and Western holidays. Only restaurants within major hotels are likely to accept credit cards.

Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including drinks and tax: $ = less than 100 yuan; $$ = 100 yuan-200 yuan; $$$ = more than 200 yuan.

Note: Do not tip at restaurants. It's not expected and may even be construed as an offense. Some restaurants may add a 15% service charge, which is sufficient to cover any gratuities.

li jia cai (li family restaurant)

Good luck getting in. If you do, you'll eat like an emperor in a homey setting. Deep-fried scallops, General Gong's chicken and other royal delicacies cross your plate and palate, while Mr. Li recalls stories about his family's history, both modern and ancient. $$$. 11 Yangfang Hutong, Deshengmenwai Hutong, phone 6618-0107.

tuanjiehu beijing roast duck restaurant

Foreigners and locals alike have gradually realized that this is the real place for duck in Beijing. There's an English menu, a computerized ordering system (watch your waitress and her Palm Pilot-like device) and really good duck. It's not cheap...but then duck never is. Reservations are an absolute must (a Chinese speaker may be needed for this). $$. Dongsanhuan Lu, Tuanjiehu Bei Kou (Tuanjiehu Park, North Entrance), Building No. 3 (across the Third Ring Road from the Zhaolong Hotel), phone 6582-4003.

aria

The China World Hotel does a nice interpretation of the grill-room concept. The menu changes every day. Quality and service vary a bit too much, but the decor is representative of the restaurant's concept: modern and open to interpretation. Stick with steaks, and ask for "well-done" if you prefer anything other than rare. Oyster lovers will find six different types on the menu at any time. All drinks are doubles, except martinis, which are triples. No service charge is added to the bill. $$$. China World Hotel, lobby level, 1 Jianguomenwai Ave., phone 6505-2266.

tgifriday's

This may not seem like a place worth visiting outside of North America, but this is where to go to see the mobile-phone crowd - Beijing's yuppies, and even some rock stars and movie stars - eating barbecue. It's three years since it first opened, but the place is still heaving almost every night; don't even think about getting in on a Friday night! This is a great place for satisfying cravings for burgers, salads and big desserts. Best of all, its prices are lower than those at the Hard Rock Cafe, and there's no service charge. Open 11 am-midnight. $$. Hua Peng Mansions, East Third Ring Road (110 yds/100 m north of the Jing Guang Center).

qianmen quanjude roast duck restaurant

This is the most elegant of the Quanjude restaurants. It's also more expensive. The cheapest way to go is right next door, where the same kitchen does the same exquisite duck for about one-quarter of the price, albeit in fast-food style or as takeout. Either way, don't overlook the asparagus. $$ and $. 32 Qianmen Dajie, Dongcheng District, phone 6511-2418.

a fun ti xingjiang restaurant

In mid 1996, this place was dingy, poorly lit, and not well known outside of a loyal group of Central Asian diplomats. Since then, this restaurant (formerly known as Uncle Afanti) has become so popular that reservations are necessary almost every night of the week. The primary dish is lamb, served in any number of styles - as roasted kebabs (yang rou chuan), roasted and stir-fried (chao kao yang rou) or served with chopped noodles and vegetables (chao mian pian). The lamb tends to be spicy, so those with sensitive palates should choose stir-fried, rather than roasted, dishes. Sample the rose wine - a light, fruity beverage with only a meager kick.

The beyond-food fun begins after 7:30 pm, when the resident Uighur musicians (the Uighur minority makes up the majority population of Xinjiang) pick up their instruments. They're joined on stage by a ravishing Uighur dancer, whose gyrations bring feasting to an immediate halt. The worst thing about A Fun Ti is its location - it's difficult to find. A reliable, though somewhat inconvenient, way to get there is to ride the Beijing Underground to the Chaoyangmen station, then walk west for 10-15 minutes on the south side of Chaoyangmennei Avenue. Daily 11 am-2:30 pm and 4:30-11:30 pm. Reservations recommended for dinner. English and Russian menus available. $. 2 Houguaibang Hutong, Chaoyangmennei Avenue, phone 6525-1071.

neng ren ju

Flash-boiled lamb (shuan yang rou) is a variation on the Sichuan hot pot that is found throughout Beijing. This particular dish comes from the influence of nomadic, Mongolian tribes on Chinese culture, especially on the cuisine of the north. A self-contained kettle is set to boil, and spices and vegetables are added to create a soup base. The main dish is lamb, but other meats, fish, vegetables and rice vermicelli can be added as well. Each piece of meat is left in for approximately 30 seconds, then taken out and dipped into a peanut sauce flavored with cilantro and chili oil. The restaurant is rumored to have made itself popular by lacing its soup with opium, giving visitors an added incentive to return. It's not easy to find, but it's so famous that most drivers and hotel personnel know it. $$. 5 Taipingqiao, Baitasi, Xicheng District, phone 6601-2560.

summer palace

This is elegant Cantonese food - unusual for a cuisine that's usually not. No teeming fish tanks here! Food is light, not greasy, and the bilingual menu is broad enough to please both Cantonese who eat everything with legs (except chairs) as well as diners eating more delicately. Dim sum is served at noon. This is an excellent place for entertaining clients, especially Chinese clients, and many celebratory luncheons and banquets are held at this site. Chopstick novices should be warned that the ones used here are the faux ivory kind, which can be hard to use once oily. Reservations for groups over six. $$$. China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, phone 6505-2266.

daniel's

Its menu billed as simple Napoli food, this fairly new Italian restaurant is certainly the city's most elegant one. Big, comfy chairs and Italian accents surround the visitor. Service is excellent. The food is good, but for the price it should be much better. Still, Daniel's is a solid choice for entertaining and for business lunches or dinners; it definitely makes the right impression. $$$. 22 Jianguelmenwai Ave., phone 6460-6688.

metro cafe

For fresh pasta, this is the place. It's also a great date restaurant. It's ironic that one of Beijing's best Italian restaurants has a menu reminiscent of a U.S. Chinese restaurant: Choose a pasta from column A, a sauce from column B. Regardless of what you choose (although you're missing out if you skip the spinach ravioli), start off with an appetizer (they're all good). Leave room for marble cheesecake. $$. 6 Workers' Stadium W. Rd. (Gongti Xilu), phone 6552-7828.

justine's

One of Beijing's oldest Continental restaurants, Justine's remains a favorite for its consistency in food, service and atmosphere. Serves a fine brunch. $$$. Jianguo Hotel, 5 Jianguomenwai Dajie, phone 6500-2233, ext. 8039.

omar khayyam

Indian food in a cozy setting. Great curries, tandooris and a good selection of vegetarian dishes. Daily 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 6-10:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Asia Pacific Building, 8 Ya Bao Lu, Chaoyang District, phone 6513-9988, ext. 20188.

red basil

This restaurant is stylish in a city not known for its stylishness, despite the garish Thai Restaurant sign outside. Reasonably priced, with excellent service and a varied menu. Unlike some of its competitors, Red Basil is definitely not a Cantonese restaurant dressed up with a bit of coconut milk here and there. $$. No. 8 Building, Zuojiazhuang, N. Third Ring Road E. (just southeast of San Yuan Bridge), phone 6460-2342.

borom pinam

Another excellent Thai entry, Borom Pinam is Beijing's longest-operating Thai restaurant. Much of what's presented here comes from Thailand: the decor, servers' apparel, ingredients, spices, even the chefs. $$. Holiday Inn Lido Beijing, Jichang Lu, Jiangtai Lu, phone 6437-6688, ext. 2899.

shun feng restaurant

The open space, boisterous atmosphere and Cantonese cuisine at this establishment may not strike everyone as desirable, but if trying to impress or gain big face is on the agenda, this may be the place. Shun Feng once had the reputation of being the most expensive restaurant in Beijing. No matter - settle in and enjoy extremely fresh seafood that you've chosen from the tanks near the entrance. $$$. Six locations in Beijing - try Shun Feng Seafood World, 16 E. Third Ring Rd., phone 6507-0554.

bai yun japanese restaurant

It's not cheap, but it is spectacular. The draw here is the atmosphere - this was Chiang Kai-shek's residence in Beijing. Other than that, the Japanese food here is not really any better or worse than elsewhere in Beijing. $$$. Youhao Hotel, 7 Houyuannensi, Jiaodaokou, Haidian District, phone 6403-1114, ext. 3264, or 6403-4003.

san si lang

Packed night after night, this is perhaps the best Japanese food in Beijing, and among the cheapest. Stuff yourself on whatever you like (only teppanyaki is missing) for less than 100 yuan. Portions are large, fresh, and tasty, and sake is smooth and inexpensive. $. Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District (directly across from Kempinski Hotel), phone 646-5030.

john bull pub

Outside of hotel coffee shops, it's tough to get a U.S.-style breakfast - eggs, pancakes, toast, the like - but a real English breakfast can be had (all day, no less) at the John Bull Pub, Beijing's only such watering hole. $. Guanghua Lu (55 yards/50 meters east of the International Post Office), phone 6532-5905.

louisiana

If you dislike Cajun spices, don't be put off by this excellent restaurant's name. In fact, the moniker might mislead those who don't know better into thinking that this eatery serves only American food. Louisiana offers as much Pacific Rim influence in its menu items as southeastern U.S. It also has the largest wine selection of any restaurant in Beijing. $$$. Beijing Hilton, 1 N. Dong Sanhuan Rd., phone 6466-2288.

Travelers wishing to save money or who are adventurous may wish to try street food in Beijing. While most health organizations discourage this, it's done all the time by Westerners who walk away with nothing more than a full stomach.

The best place to run the gourmand gauntlet is the night market at Donghuamen, which runs between Wangfujing and the east gate of the Forbidden City. It's unlikely that foreigners will be interested in such delights as bird-on-a-stick. However, there are also fried noodles, fried dumplings and lamb kebabs. In ordering these, make sure that the cook prepares a new batch for you instead of just taking from a side of the pan that isn't cooking.

Another street dish is a jian bing, a kind of egg pancake with spring onions wrapped around a flat, crunchy cake and soy sauce. They cost around 2 yuan and are very filling. Look for white carts with red roofs that have a large, black iron skillet on them.

As for late-night dining, some local restaurants are open 24 hours, but it takes a lot of walking or driving to find them. Your cab driver will certainly know, if you can communicate your request. Otherwise, scratch the midnight itch at Baskin-Robbins Ice Cream. It may not have the 33 flavors of its U.S. counterparts, but there are plenty to choose from, including Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough. There are also a variety of sundaes, and for those who'd rather take frozen goodies back to the hotel, pints and quarts can be prepared for takeout. Open daily, 24 hours. $. Next to the Friendship Store, 17 Jianguomenwai Dajie, no phone.