There are some drugstore beauty products that come with a cultish reputation and Aquaphor is among them. A favorite of tattoo artists, sufferers of chapped lips, and dermatologists alike, the ubiquitous gel offers relief, hydration, and protection, all in a one-size-fits-most package. 

“Whereas Vaseline is 100 percent petrolatum or petroleum jelly, Aquaphor is 41 percent petrolatum,” says Whitney Bowe, MD, the dermatologist behind the viral concept of skincycling. “It also contains ingredients including glycerin (a humectant that draws water into the skin) and lanolin, so you have a combination of a humectant drawing the moisture in and an occlusive sealing that moisture in.” (For context, lanolin is borne of grease and fat innate to sheep’s wool, and is a deeply conditioning skincare additive.) Bowe adds that Aquaphor also contains an ingredient called panthenol, which can be calming and soothing.

“At my clinic, The Dermatology Collective, we use Aquaphor for healing wounds and for post-procedural care,” says dermatologist Chris Tomassian, MD. “Aquaphor helps in calming irritated or recently treated skin, making it a go-to for post-dermatological procedures like chemical peels, surgeries, or laser treatments.” (Tattoo artists rely on the same traits to promote healing while ridding the skin of itchiness and irritation.)

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But what’s the best way to use Aquaphor on your face? Here, experts weigh in on best practices around the product, along with easy ways to incorporate it into your existing skincare routine. 

Benefits of Using Aquaphor on the Face

It comes as no surprise that Aquaphor’s most immediate benefit is enhanced hydration—it’s hinted at in the name, after all. “Aquaphor is a very effective occlusive, meaning it traps moisture in the skin,” says Bowe. The product does this by forming a protective barrier upon application, sealing moisture into your complexion. 

This same quality lends to Aquaphor’s use as a healing ointment. “It's definitely a myth that leaving your skin open to scab makes it heal faster,” says Tomassian. “Aquaphor can expedite the healing process of minor cuts, abrasions, or post-acne scarring by keeping the area moisturized.” 

Those who struggle with dry skin, or even chronic conditions like eczema and psoriasis, may experience relief with a touch of Aquaphor. This is due to both its sealing properties and its emollient composition, which provides on-site relief. 

How to Apply Aquaphor on the Face

Aquaphor is a slugging fanatic’s best friend. Because of its occlusive nature, Aquaphor helps products like specialized acids, serums, and moisturizers stay put, penetrating and delivering promised results better. Though greasy and rich, the product itself isn’t a moisturizer, per se; rather, consider it a means of exaggerating and enhancing the results of your well-honed skincare line-up. 

“I often recommend it to my patients as a last step, over a moisturizer, wherever their skin feels especially tight or dry,” says Bowe, reiterating Aquaphor’s sealing nature. That said, it’s best to limit your slug sessions to once a week (and to avoid it altogether during humid seasons) to avoid water retention caused by a build-up of trapped sweat and oil, along with accompanying irritation. And, as with all slugging sessions, remember to cleanse your complexion upon waking to remove any excess products. 

Apply a nightly layer to your lips to wake up with a plump, hydrated pout to match your reinvigorated skin. Aquaphor is also a great on-the-go treatment for any dry or chapped patches that may present throughout the day.

As noted, Aquaphor is a fantastic as-needed moisture-trapper. It’s also a stand-out, if humble, lip treatment. “The most common use for Aquaphor is for lip care,” says Tomassian. “Since Aquaphor forms a protective barrier on the lips, it can shield the lips and skin from environmental aggressors like wind and cold temperatures, as well as your own saliva.” 

For those interested in experimenting with slugging, a weekly layer of Aquaphor post-skincare routine is an easy means of maximizing the product’s benefits. And it’s doubly beneficial during wintertime. “Applying a thin layer of Aquaphor on the face during drier times of the year can help keep the skin well moisturized,” says L.A.-based dermatologist Karen Chinonso Kagha, MD. “This can be especially helpful for those with drier skin or who live in drier climates.” 

For Aquaphor beginners, we recommend investing in a travel-sized option, primed for stashing in your favorite purse for lip and spot treatments, both will allow you to familiarize yourself with the product before jumping into the thick and gooey deep end. 

Potential Side Effects of Using Aquaphor on the Face

In terms of Aquaphor application, there is the potential for too much of a good thing. “In general, always patch-test to see how your skin reacts to a product,” says Tomassian. “If you are prone to milia in your eye area, you should avoid using Aquaphor around the skin around the eyes.” Milia are teeny tiny white cysts that occur by a build-up of protein beneath the skin, which Aquaphor’s occlusivity can exacerbate. 

The same methodology is true for acne: Though Aquaphor is non-comedogenic, meaning it won’t clog your pores, its thick and oily formulation may be too much for those with sensitive skin. As such, those who experience regular breakouts should use Aquaphor sparingly — or avoid it altogether. 

And finally, take all aspects of your current skincare routine into account before adding Aquaphor into the mix. “I don't recommend layering Aquaphor over retinoids or exfoliating acids because such an occlusive topical can drive those powerful ingredients into the skin and increase the risk of irritation,” says Bowe. (Side note: Using Aquaphor on evenings when you’re not incorporating actives can actually be beneficial, as a ramped-up moisture barrier can help future products do their jobs.)

Unassuming as it may be, Aquaphor is something of a hero product. Take the time to learn how it affects your skin through trial and error, and prepare for moisture aid and protection with just one thin, gelatinous layer.