Since the widely publicized "restaurant renaissance" of the 1970s, this culturally and ethnically diverse city has offered restaurants for every taste and pocketbook. (Six or seven Philly eateries are almost always listed in polls of the nation's best restaurants.) The most recent area of restaurant development is in the funky Old City neighborhood. Another popular area is the Rittenhouse Square District, which is blessed with an abundance of fine restaurants.

South Philadelphia, where most of the city's huge Italian population resides, abounds with great Italian restaurants (and is the source of the original Philadelphia cheesesteak). Chinatown has three to five Asian restaurants per block—Thai and Vietnamese as well as Chinese. The neighborhood around the Italian Market has also given rise to a crop of Asian restaurants, between 9th and 11th on Washington Avenue. Around the University of Pennsylvania there's another wealth of ethnic establishments (Indian, Thai, Mexican, Japanese).

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$10; $$ = US$10-$20; $$$ = US$21-$50; and $$$$ = more than US$50.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Brasserie Perrier—A new take on modern bistro cuisine from the award-winning owner of Le Bec-Fin, Georges Perrier. The menu reflects a marriage of French, Italian and Asian cuisines. Specialties include yellowfin tuna sashimi and roasted breast of free-range chicken with braised cabbage. The bar is a see-and-be-seen emporium. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:15 pm; dinner Monday-Saturday 5:30-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1619 Walnut St., Philadelphia. Phone 215-568-3000.

Buddakan—Equal parts Zen and 5th Avenue, Buddakan is an Asian-themed restaurant notable for its large, gold-leafed meditating Buddha. Foods of Japan, Vietnam, India, China and Thailand are interwoven into inventive culinary creations. All dishes are designed to be shared and are served, Chinatown style, whenever they come out of the kitchen. Lunch Monday-Friday 11 am-3 pm; dinner Sunday-Thursday 5-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 5 pm-midnight. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 325 Chestnut St., Philadelphia. Phone 215-574-9440.

Deux Cheminees—"Two Fireplaces," a classic French restaurant in two adjoining town houses (formerly the Princeton Club) with blazing fireplaces in all rooms during the chilly season. Owner and chef de cuisine Fritz Blank visits each table to answer questions and hear suggestions. Signature dish is Veloute Crab Marguerite, a cream-based hot crab soup, laced with Scotch whiskey. In season, the venison steaks are prized. Tuesday-Saturday from 5:30 pm until about 9 pm. Reservations imperative. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 1221 Locust St., Philadelphia. Phone 215-790-0200.

Fork—One of the city's freshest eateries, Fork is both sophisticated and urbane, a stylish American bistro with a lively bar, frequented by equally stylish locals. Fork is the place to bring a client who appreciates the offbeat and artsy. Chef Anne-Marie Lasher's cuisine is American Eclectic—an amalgam of Asian and Mediterranean—you'll be tempted by the likes of grilled coriander shrimp and poached salmon dumplings. Just 48 seats, so reservations are recommended. Private parties on Monday evenings when restaurant is otherwise closed. Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm; dinner Sunday-Wednesday 5:30-10:30 pm; Thursday-Saturday 5:30-11:30 pm; brunch Sunday 11 am-2:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 306 Market St., Philadelphia. Phone 215-625-9425. Fax 215-625-9435.

Fountain Restaurant—In the Four Seasons Hotel. Elegant international cuisine, with a la carte and prix-fixe selections at dinner. Consistently rated among the best in the U.S. Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch—a most expansive (and waist-expanding) occasion that draws gourmands from New York. The adjoining Swann Lounge offers afternoon tea Monday-Saturday 3-5 pm and a live jazz trio on Friday and Saturday evenings. Daily Viennese dessert buffet 9 pm-1 am. Also serving brunch Sundays 11 am-2:30 pm and lunch other days from 11:30 am-2:30 pm. Monday-Saturday 6:30-10 am, 11:30 am-2:15 pm and 5:45-10 pm; Sunday 11 am-10:30 pm. Reservations essential. $$$$. Most major credit cards. One Logan Square (18th and Benjamin Franklin Parkway), Philadelphia. Phone 215-963-1500.

Le Bar Lyonnais—Downstairs at the same address as Le Bec-Fin, classic bistro-style French cuisine in a less formal setting. No reservations. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1523 Walnut St., Philadelphia. Phone 215-567-1000.

Le Bec-Fin—Nearly every culinary award has been given to this superior French restaurant and its chef/owner, Georges Perrier. Menus change seasonally; they might include saddle of rabbit stuffed with tomatoes and olives, or filet of veal with wild morels. The ornate dining room boasts crystal chandeliers. Lunch and dinner are prix fixe—lunch for one US$36, dinner US$118, excluding drinks, tax and tip. Reservations must be made two to three weeks in advance; you'll be advised of two seatings for both lunch and dinner. Lunch Monday-Friday and dinner Monday-Saturday; closed Sundays. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 1523 Walnut St., Philadelphia. Phone 215-567-1000.

Opus 251—Tucked into the Art Alliance on stylish Rittenhouse Square. Alfonso Contrisciani, one of the youngest of the 54 master chefs in the U.S., prepares a mix of Mediterranean and Asian-influenced dishes, emphasizing regional seasonal ingredients. The bouillabaisse is a specialty. A sophisticated and elegant place, with an outdoor garden. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm; dinner Monday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm; Sunday 5-8:30 pm; brunch Saturday and Sunday 11 am-2 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 251 S. 18th St., Philadelphia. Phone 215-735-6787.

Rococo—A vast space with plenty of color; a long, active bar; snappy service; and gargantuan portions. When you've adjusted to the upbeat tempo, focus on trendy entrees like crabcakes with Asian salad and wasabi chips or chicken pesto pizza. Finish off with the banana cream torte. Located in a former corn exchange, Rococo teems with young professionals who drop in for a meal that won't bust their wallets—most entrees come in under US$20. Monday-Thursday 5-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 5 pm-midnight, Sunday 4-10 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 123 Chestnut St., Philadelphia. Phone 215-629-1100.

Striped Bass—With its stunning Casablanca decor, this restaurant and its menu took the city by storm. Chef Terrence Feury produces such dishes as roasted Atlantic salmon with a horseradish crust, beet salad, corn and sauteed greens. Full menu at the bar (where no reservations are required). Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 5-11 pm; Friday and Saturday 5-11:30 pm; Sunday 11 am-2:30 pm and 5-10 pm (no Sunday lunch in the summer). Reservations for the dining room are imperative and hard to come by. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 1500 Walnut St., Philadelphia. Phone 215-732-4444. Fax 215-732-4433.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Azafran—Caracas-born owner Susanna Goihman brings a Nuevo Latino sensibility to dishes like grilled salmon, brightened with a flavorful orange and beet sauce, or chicken "steak" with arugula and tomatoes. This low-key place is cozy (32 seats) and relaxed; expect a wait on weekends. Bring your own spirits. Tuesday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm, Sunday 4:30-9:30 pm. $$. No credit cards. Cash only. 617 S. 3rd St. (just north of Bainbridge), Philadelphia. Phone 215-928-4019.

DiNardo's Famous Crabs—Long-time favorite in Old City, renowned for steamed hard-shell crabs, but also offering a full line of fresh broiled or grilled seafood. Entire menu available for take-out. Monday-Thursday 10 am-9:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-10:30 pm, Sunday 3-8:30 pm. Reservations for six or more. $$. Most major credit cards. 312 Race St., Philadelphia. Phone 215-925-5115.

Friday Saturday Sunday—A perennial neighborhood favorite off Rittenhouse Square, with a friendly yet romantic feel and well-prepared American cuisine. The upstairs Tank Bar is a popular meeting place. Tuesday-Friday 10 am-2:30 pm and 5:30-10:30 pm, Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm, Sunday 5-10 pm. Reservations advised. $$$. Most major credit cards. 261 S. 21st St., Philadelphia. Phone 215-546-4232.

Jim's Steaks—The art-deco, cafeteria-style setting is just right for sampling that native delicacy, the Philadelphia cheesesteak: thinly sliced beef grilled and served on a long Italian roll with melted cheese and accompaniments. Monday-Thursday 10 am-1 am, Friday and Saturday 10 am-3 am, Sunday noon-10 pm. $. No credit cards. Cash and travelers checks only. 400 South St., Philadelphia. Phone 215-928-1911.

Pamplona—Hip tapas restaurant with an atmosphere Paloma Picasso would like—art on the walls, on the tables, in the air. Vegetarian friendly and smoke free. Dinner Sunday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11 pm. Reservations for six or more. $. Most major credit cards. 25 S. 12th St., Philadelphia. Phone 215-627-9059.

Pat's King of Steaks—A cafeteria known for its famous Philly cheesesteaks. Eat in or take out. Open daily, 24 hours. $. No credit cards. 9th and Wharton Streets, Philadelphia. Phone 215-468-1546.

Reading Terminal Market—This converted train station offers cheap lunches from a wide range of ethnic territory—a good place to go when one in your group feels like seafood, another wants a hoagie and a third yearns for Middle Eastern. Tables and chairs provided. Monday-Saturday 8 am-6 pm. $. 12th and Arch Streets, Philadelphia. Phone 215-922-2317.

White Dog Cafe—This hip bistro draws an international crowd from nearby Penn and Drexel Universities—a bustling mix of professors, grad students and neighborhood locals. Against a funky backdrop, you can enjoy such specialties as Caribbean-grilled mahimahi and curry-roasted vegetables with Indian cheese dumplings. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm; dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm; Friday and Saturday till 11 pm, Sunday 5-9:30 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 3420 Sansom St., Philadelphia. Phone 215-386-9224.

ASIAN

Ho Sai Gai—Specialties include Beijing duck, Hunan chicken and seafood, and dim sum. Open Monday-Friday 11 am-4 am, Saturday 11 am-4 am, Sunday 10:30 am-4 am. Dim sum served Monday-Saturday 11 am-3 pm, Sunday 10:30 am-3 pm. No reservations needed. $$. Most major credit cards. 10th and Cherry Streets, phone 215-925-8384.

Imperial Inn—In Chinatown (close to the convention center). Cantonese, Sichuan and Mandarin dishes, plus authentic dim sum. Cocktails. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-11:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-2:30 am. Dim sum daily 11 am-3 pm. Reservations advised. $-$$$. Most major credit cards. 142 N. 10th St., phone 215-627-5588.

Le Colonial—Ceiling fans, rattan furniture and period decor set the mood at this stylish ode to French-Vietnamese cuisine. Appetizers include bo bia, a salad roll with sweet bean sauce. An outstanding main course is ca chien Saigon, a whole red snapper seared and served with a spicy, sweet-and-sour sauce. Upstairs, an oh-so-chic cocktail lounge harks back to old Saigon. Open for dinner Monday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm, Sunday 5-9 pm, lounge to 11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1623 Walnut St., phone 215-851-1623.

Susanna Foo—The most elegant Chinese restaurant in the city is not in Chinatown but in the heart of the business district, three blocks from City Hall. The chef/owner has been called one of the outstanding chefs in the country. She specializes in imaginative seafood dishes, such as sizzling squirrel bass with gingered scallions and caramelized sweet-and-sour sauce. Desserts are more French than Chinese. Banquet facilities available. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, dinner Monday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm, Sunday 5-9 pm. Reservations advised. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1512 Walnut St., phone 215-545-2666.

Thai Garden East—Features Thai steamed dumpling and Cho Chee duck. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-3 pm and 5-10 pm, Friday 11:30 am-3 pm and 5-11 pm, Saturday noon-11 pm, Sunday noon-10 pm. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. 101 N. 11th St., phone 215-629-9939.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

Down Home Diner—In the Reading Terminal Market, terrific country breakfasts—everything made from produce sold at the on-site Italian Market. A former chef at Le Bec-Fin, Jack McDavid, oversees the buttermilk biscuits, venison sausage and homemade ketchup. Lunch and dinner served as well. Monday-Saturday 7 am-8 pm. $. No credit cards. 12th and Arch Streets, phone 215-627-1955.

COFFEEHOUSES

La Colombe—This elegant, European-feeling cafe, which supplies its own beans to fine restaurants in town, serves its brews in beautiful, flowered china. Delicious French pastries also available. Monday-Friday 7:30 am-6:30 pm, Saturday 8:30 am-6:30 pm, Sunday 9:30 am-6:30 pm. $. No credit cards. 130 S. 19th St. (off Rittenhouse Square), phone 215-563-0860.

Old City Coffee—Roasts its own coffee, and neighborhood regulars swear by it. Full line of coffee specialties, plus soup (at lunch), bagels and other baked goods. Monday-Friday 7:30 am-5:30 pm, Saturday 8 am-5:30 pm, Sunday 9 am-3 pm. $. No credit cards. 221 Church St. (in the historic district), phone 215-629-9292. (Old City also has a coffee bar in the Reading Terminal Market. Monday-Wednesday 7 am-6 pm, Thursday-Friday 7 am-8 pm, Saturday 8 am-8 pm, Sunday 8 am-6 pm. Most major credit cards. Phone 215-592-1897.)

Xando—New York doesn't have the market cornered on hipster coffee bars, as both locations of Xando testify. Comfy couches are ideal for spooning with your babe or people watching in this mostly slacker crowd. Liquor (after 4 pm) and all manner of coffees, pastries and light fare are served. Monday-Thursday 7 am-midnight, weekends 7:30 am-2 am. $$. Most major credit cards. 235 S. 15th St. (at Locust), phone 215-893-9696, and 4th and Chestnut Streets, phone 215-399-0215.

CONTINENTAL

Grill Room at the Ritz-Carlton—Substantial portions of superbly prepared food served in understated opulence. Standards include prime aged beef, veal chops and steamed lobster, as well as seasonal innovations. Their signature dessert, raspberry creme brulee, is superb. Outstanding wine list. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm, daily 5:30-10 pm, Sunday breakfast 6:30-11 am. Reservations suggested. $$$. Most major credit cards. 17th and Chestnut Streets at Liberty Place, phone 215-563-1600.

Oberon—Comfort food for the intelligentsia. The cuisine is boldly flavored, yet simple: a stuffed swordfish dish from Sicily; an Alsatian roast chicken bathed in a glaze of cider vinegar, Riesling wine and tomato puree; a steak with pommes frites. The menu is a la carte and reasonable—it's the US$7 martinis that will run up the bill. The restaurant's inside/outside front tables near the bar are ideal for Old City people watching, martini sipping and oyster slurping (the restaurant also has a raw bar). Lunch is served daily 11:30 am-5 pm; dinner till midnight Sunday-Thursday, till 2 am Friday and Saturday. $$. Most major credit cards. 126 Chestnut St., phone 215-629-8337.

Rouge 98—This intimate, 50-seat cafe on Rittenhouse Square, the first to offer outside dining, is a haven of chic—all done up in shades of rose and chocolate. From its Klimt-inspired mirrors to its seared salmon with lobster mashed potatoes and red-wine lobster sauce, Rouge 98 is a bistro-lounge worth discovering. The drinks are pricey. No smoking. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30-3 pm; dinner Monday-Saturday 5 pm-1 am. $$. 205 S. 18th St., phone 215-732-6622.

FRENCH

Caribou Cafe—No coat-and-tie elegance—just an authentic French cafe where patrons relax as if on the Left Bank, reading, conversing and listening to music. Open for dinner Monday-Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm, Sunday 5-10 pm; lunch Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-4 pm; Sunday brunch 11:30-4 pm, and daily until 11 pm for coffee and dessert. Reservations needed for six or more. $. Most major credit cards. 1126 Walnut St., phone 215-625-9535.

Restaurant Ciboulette—Provencal cuisine, elegantly prepared and served. Coat and tie suggested. Monday-Thursday 5:30-9 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-10 pm. Reservations advised. $$$. Most major credit cards. In the Park Hyatt Philadelphia at the Bellevue at Broad and Walnut Streets, phone 215-790-1210.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Toto—Landmark, elaborately furnished restaurant, specializing in Northern Italian cuisine. Coat and tie suggested. Open for dinner Monday-Thursday 5-10 pm and Friday and Saturday 5:30-10 pm (cafe menu served to 11 pm). Open for lunch on Fridays during the concert season. Reservations advised. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1407 Locust St. (across from the Academy of Music), phone 215-546-2000.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Circa—Set in a refurbished bank building. Dine on the main floor in a large, elegantly decorated "bank lobby" or in the lockbox/bank vault, which has been converted into a cozy dining area. American-style cuisine. Tuesday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, Monday-Wednesday 5-10 pm, Thursday-Saturday 5-11 pm (club parties on Friday and Saturday 11 pm-2 am; call for details), Sunday 4:30-9 pm. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 1518 Walnut St., phone 215-545-6800.

City Tavern—This faithful rendition of an 18th-century tavern features authentic colonial cooking, homebaked breads and pastries and costumed waiters and waitresses to get you in the spirit of 1776. A true Philadelphia experience. The turkey pot pie is their trademark. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-9 pm, Saturday 11:30 am-10 pm, Sunday 11:30 am-8 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 138 S. 2nd St., phone 215-413-1443.

Moshulu—The historic Moshulu, a four-masted sailing ship, has been restored to an elegant turn-of-the-century restaurant. Menu is varied—Thai, French, Italian—with such specialties as rack of lamb, ostrich and shellfish dishes. Upper decks open in warmer weather. Open year round. $$$. Most major credit cards. Pier 34, 735 S. Columbus Blvd., phone 215-923-2500, and on the Web,