J.Crew's Joe Serino on '"business casual"'

(CNN) -- "The past of purchasing a complete suit now has alternatives," says Joe Serino. "Suit separates give the customer options on buying the jacket, pant or both. Mixing separate pieces puts men in the arena where women have been for years." Serino brings to coverage of the ""business casual"" issue the perspective of a professional fashion observer and the work-wear strategy of a major retailer in the marketplace. Here, Serino talked with /career readers about the future of neckties in the workplace, the long-term forecast for "business casual," flat-front vs. pleated trousers and more.

CNN Chat Moderator: Thank you for joining us today, Joe Serino, and welcome.

Joe Serino: Hi. I'm Joe Serino and I am a senior vice president at J.Crew. My responsibility at the company is to forecast the direction of apparel for our target customers and the brand.

NO FORMALITIES

Joe Serino of J.Crew is one of several industry experts who spoke to us about the "business casual" trend in career dress codes today. Read the story on it.

CNN Chat Moderator: What's the idea behind "business casual"?

Joe Serino: "business casual" is becoming a lifestyle where people can have alternatives in the way they dress -- a bi-product of casualness which has reached the workplace. Many companies both young and old have chosen to adopt a more casual lifestyle in the workplace, addressing the times and as a sort of benefit.

CNN Chat Moderator: How has the blurring of casual and dressy attire affected the J.Crew line?

Joe Serino: At J.Crew, we attempt to dress our customer seven days a week. It hasn't blurred the lines, it's demanded that we expand our offering so that our customer can enjoy the same style for Monday through Friday as well as on the weekends.

Question from Otis: What are the new trends?

Joe Serino: The newest trend as a direct result of "business casual" is the benefit of being able to purchase a jacket and pant made of the same material without being forced to purchase the entire suit. We refer to this as "suit separates." This has been going on for many years in women's apparel and now men have choices to either match a jacket with a pant or wear them as separates. In addition, it's no longer deemed improper to wear a sweater or knit top under a sport jacket.

CNN Chat Moderator: What other techniques, if any, have men picked up from their female counterparts?

Joe Serino: I'd say mixing and matching is probably the most important change in mens wardrobe. Having said that, it's true that some men who haven't had to think this way are having difficulty when it comes to putting their wardrobe together. At J.Crew we merchandise our product in the stores, in the catalog or on our Web site to help put the components together for our customer.

Question from where: Where does one draw the line between comfort and "sloppy?"

Joe Serino: A lot of that depends on your own common sense and whether your company has issued specific dress-code guidelines. We at J.Crew would never recommend torn or tattered attire in the workplace. There are ways to look casual and comfortable without being sloppy.

Question from Pleatornottopleat: Is that why your catalog shows outfits?

Joe Serino: Yes. We make every attempt to show our customers literally how to put components together. For example, a wool pleated pant with a cotton checked shirt; the same wool pleated pants with a lightweight merino wool sweater; or a cotton chino pant with either a shirt or a sweater. We do that purposefully, yes.

Question from Katy: I was just wondering what are the most popular colors this fall/winter?

Joe Serino: For bottoms, the colors are predominantly gray, blue navy, khaki and stone. The unofficial uniform in shirts would be any color in the blue range, although gray and green are becoming more and more popular. In sweaters -- again navy, gray and olive head the list.

Question from PJ: Are neckties gone forever?

Joe Serino: We don't feel neckties are gone forever. In fact, depending upon your profession and your schedule during the week we might recommend a matching jacket and pant with a classic shirt and tie.

Question from Rob: Is it a "no-no" to wear cream-colored pants in the fall/winter season?

Joe Serino: No. No longer. We sell stone-colored pants, a very light color, 12 months a year. Many of the rules which use to be tried-and-true have become more relaxed as a result of "business casual."

Question from scott: Do you believe that the fit of clothes in , say, 1950s has made a return? The tight-fitted look many people are wearing today?

Joe Serino: The trend certainly is closer to the body than say the last three years. We don't consider it tight-fitting. We consider it good-fitting clothing. The closer a garment fits to the body, the better it has to fit.

Question from Is: Is a suit still the only option for men on a job interview? (A college senior asks.)

Joe Serino: No. Depending on the interview, type of business and knowledge you have of that company, a jacket and pant with a shirt and no tie or jacket and pant with a sweater may be perfectly acceptable on a job interview. We at J.Crew suggest that the potential employee does homework about a company and uses that knowledge along with common sense to decide how to present him- or herself at an interview.

CNN Chat Moderator: Is "business casual" just a current trend or is this becoming the norm?

Joe Serino: "Business casual" is here to stay. As is normal in the fashion business, we'll see peaks and valleys but due to the ever-changing climate, e-commerce, people working at home, Silicon Valley, etc., "business casual" has found a permanent home. It's not a trend, it's a lifestyle.

Question from Fitz: I'm a dentist who's been in the U.S. Navy for 10 years and am soon getting out to enter private practice. What attire would you recommend for daily office wear for a male dentist?

Joe Serino: I feel it's very appropriate for a male dentist in the year 2000 to wear a refined pair of pants and crisp cotton shirt with no tie as a regular uniform.

Question from patrick: Do you think our politicians are going to pick up on this trend?

And question from yes: Who has a better sense of fashion, Bush or Gore?

Joe Serino: I definitely feel the political arena has picked up on "business casual." If you've witnessed and followed the current campaign, you've seen many photos, particularly of Gore, in a cotton pant and shirt, no tie. I think Al Gore's taste level and style is more classic and safe, while Bush strikes me as a bit more formal and somewhat forward.

Question from CharliGirl-CNN: I want to know what's with all the shiny ties these days.

Joe Serino: Well most of the ties you're seeing today have less texture on the surface, which gives them a more shiny appearance. Also the trend in ties over the last two years has been predominantly solid colors without print or pattern, woven or printed into the tie.

Question from shmoe: For corporate trainers in a "business casual" environment, do you think it's best to dress one level "above" your audience, or to stick with the "business casual?"

Joe Serino: I think it's important as a trainer to show your audience the full range of options because for the very first time men have options. In the corporate business world.

CNN Chat Moderator: Are men now able to dress with more personality in their wardrobe?

Joe Serino: Absolutely. The suit represents a standardized less-personable appearance and only through the change of a shirt and or tie would a man be able to present his personality. Now there are many options both in the pants and the tops (shirts, sweaters, knits) to present himself in a semi-casual or more casual vein.

Question from Pleatornottopleat: Showing me outfits (as is done at JCrew.com and others sites) has been extremely helpful, as my wife isn't always around to show me how to put things together. Are wives and significant others playing a role in what men choose to wear?

QUICK VOTE

Joe Serino: I think less so than in the past. Throughout the last five years, we at J.Crew have seen a significant increase in men shopping for themselves. As men become more comfortable with their options and gain the ability to put a variety of tops with a few foundation bottoms together, we feel this trend will continue. It's important to experiment in a store to find your level of comfort by mixing components together. At J.Crew we put a lot of emphasis on associate training to assist customers in becoming more comfortable with their options.

Question from Pleatornottopleat: What are your thoughts on pleats? Are they coming back or am I safe with flat fronts?

Joe Serino: We at J.Crew are big proponents of the flat front. Contrary to popular belief, sales in flat front pants at J.Crew are now greater than the pleated styles. We also feel that the flat front pant is more flattering, particularly if a man is on the larger side. There is simply less fabric to accentuate his size.

Question from yes: How about sizes for men at JCrew? Everything's for skinny 20-somethings.

Joe Serino: In the catalog and on the Internet, many of our styles are offered in extended sizes, both big and tall and double XXL. We have primarily two fits in tops. Our classic fit, which is standard and not for skinny people, and an offering of certain styles which may be a bit smaller. The same holds true in pants.

CNN Chat Moderator: Do you have any final thoughts to share with us today?

Joe Serino: I would urge men to take some lessons from their wives and girlfriends and significant others and learn more about their options and not be afraid to experiment with putting different pieces together. It's perfectly acceptable for both their private and professional lives. And of course they should come to J.Crew, we have a great Web site

CNN Chat Moderator: Thank you for joining us today.

Joe Serino: Thank you for your time. I hope some of my tips have been helpful and we look forward to seeing you at J.Crew.

Joe Serino joined the chat via telephone from London. CNN.com provided a typist for him. The above is an edited transcript of the chat, which took place on Friday, October 20, 2000.

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A wardrobe that works: Career cool
October 20, 2000

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