Where the hotel truly excels is in the food department, with a quartet of very different, but equally solid, restaurants. At the top end of the scale is BeSo, offering two tasting menus and an innovative approach to wine tasting, wherein the sommelier offers test-tubes filled with different aromas to determine your ideal wine.

Impar is more of a bistro – highly recommended are the turbot with garlic and red pepper, and the mussels with lemon and fennel. There is a also a ‘book café’ off the lobby, serving light dishes and salads. Downstairs is Zuu, a speakeasy cabaret supper club, where the meat and fish dishes are much more than an afterthought to the burlesque show.

Breakfast is also exemplary, with different counters dedicated to fruit and cheese, cold meats, pastries and so on, along with cast-iron skillets sizzling with bacon, eggs, sausages and more.