Brow trends come and go, and right now, the look is all about soft, perfectly arched, naturally filled-in ones. You may have heard of microblading, the beloved treatment for get-up-and-go fluffy eyebrows — and microshading is like its baby sister, creating a softer look.

While both brow-boosting techniques lead to well-defined brows, microshading is the newest iteration of semi-permanent brow treatments. Read on for what the brow experts have to say about microshading — and why you may want to trade in microblading for something new.

What Is Microshading?

Microshading is a form of semi-permanent makeup that provides a less intense look than microblading while adding color and shape to otherwise sparse eyebrows. According to Daria Chuprys, microshading (also called ombré brows or powder eyebrows) involves the application of tiny pixels of pigment via a permanent makeup machine to create a soft, powdery effect. 

Meet the expert

Microshading uses a small handheld manual or electric pen or a tattooing machine to create pigmented pixels within the eyebrow, whereas microblading utilizes a blade to deposit the color. The pixels allow for a more customizable outcome with precise edges and arches for a naturally groomed appearance suitable for various skin types and desired looks.

Tiago Sãopaio prefers to work with a pen to enhance the eyebrows because he feels it is more precise and healthier for the skin. Plus, pixels create a gradual transition of color (from light to dark) and are less likely to smudge or blur for better healing and more consistent results, Chuprys shares.

The Benefits of Microshading

Microshading works for all skin types, but is advantageous for oily or sensitive skin; oily skin constantly produces sebum, which can dilute the implanted color and lead to fading over time. "Implanting the pigment using a pixel technique allows it to be more stable in the skin to heal with a more natural look," says Stevi Christine.

Since sensitive skin can sometimes heal differently and result in a grayish or blotchy appearance with microblading, it also reaps the benefits of microshading. Plus, sensitive skin has cooler undertones, and small microblading cuts can cause pigment dispersion. "Microshading offers a gentler application method and results in more consistent color and healing," says Chuprys.

What the Treatment Is Like

From start to finish, a microshading appointment takes about two hours. An appointment typically involves several steps to create natural-looking brows:

1. First, there is a consultation where you discuss with your permanent makeup artist (PMA) what eyebrow shape and color you want, which can be customized. "When clients come in, I fully evaluate their skin color and undertones, skin quality, facial muscles, and natural hair," Sãopaio says.
2. Next, your brow artists will design a face-flattering shape drawn on the brows to visualize the proposed eyebrow shape before the procedure begins. Topical numbing cream is applied to the brow area to make the experience as comfortable as possible (it can be painful without it).
3. With a specialized machine outfitted with a fine needle, the artist creates small pixels in the brow area by layering and shading the pigments to achieve a powdery effect. Your technician may reapply additional numbing cream throughout the treatment to manage any discomfort. 

You'll need to keep the area dry for the first 24 to 48 hours to let the pigment settle in appropriately, so it's best to come to your appointment without any makeup on so you don't have to wash your face and risk disrupting the color that has been placed.

What the Healing Process Entails

Immediately after your microshading appointment, your eyebrows will be darker than their natural color due to skin irritation and a natural inflammatory response with temporary redness and swelling, but there's no reason to worry. "The pigment also sits on the top layer of the skin, contributing to the initial darkness because it has not yet settled beneath the epidermis, where it will eventually reside," Chuprys explains.

The eyebrows will also scab as the skin heals naturally. It's important to keep the eyebrows dry because, Chuprys says, if they are exposed to excessive water, it can soften and disrupt the scabs, potentially causing them to come off prematurely and a loss of pigment. The pigment must 'grab' onto the skin, so Christine recommends avoiding workouts or activities that cause sweating, moisture or increased blood pressure. "Increasing your blood pressure will increase blood circulation and push the pigment out of the skin, creating a poorly healed result," she says.

While the eyebrows heal, using the proper aftercare products is essential. Chuprys recommends Golden Brows Aftercare Pads. "They are soft and gentle on the skin and are used to wipe the eyebrow area to remove excess lymph and promote a thinner scab formation," she says. She also suggests wearing a protective visor when washing the hair to provide a barrier and prevent moisture from contacting the freshly done eyebrows. 

Within a few weeks, the scabs will fall off. The microshaded eyebrows will emerge with a gradual transition of color, mimicking the natural appearance of the eyebrows without any harsh lines. But you'll need a touch-up about six to eight weeks after the initial treatment. "This allows the technician to assess the healed results and make any necessary adjustments or enhancements," Chuprys says. "The touch-up session ensures that the brows retain their desired shape and color, providing longer-lasting results."

How to Maintain the Results

Even with freshly microshaded eyebrows, the natural hairs will continue growing, which can be easily cleaned up with tweezing or threading. Avoid waxing them because the eyebrows will fade if the wax lifts the color off the skin.

Always wear sunscreen on and around the eyebrows to keep the brows looking as fresh as possible, since UV rays can deplete and even alter the color of your microshading. Also, Sãopaio says to avoid wearing creams that contain acids near the eyebrows, which can dull the color.

While microshaded eyebrows last about 12 to 18 months, touch-up appointments are typically recommended to maintain their shape and color. However, individuals with oily skin may require touch-ups more frequently since the excess oil can cause the pigments to fade faster.

According to Sãopaio, there are really no risks or side effects with microshading. "Just look for a good artist who is up to date on new techniques and safety measures, and be happy with your new eyebrows," he says.