Enjoying a freshly picked fig is a true Southern tradition. The sweet-fleshed varieties that do so well in the Atlanta area are unlikely to make their way to a grocery store. Thin-skinned and fragile, they need careful handling to go to market. For the next few weeks, you might be lucky to find carefully packed pints at your local farmers market.

Completely pest-free, fig trees are a great addition to a home orchard. Not only are they easy to grow, but the plants are long-lived. Just ask Covington's Ann Brewer, manager of chef demos at the Morningside Farmers Market, a volunteer job she’s held for 16 years.

She lives in Covington in a house that was built in 1821, one she claims is among the oldest continuously inhabited buildings in Newton County. Originally part of a 6,000-acre cotton plantation, her house sits on 30 acres and is planted with fig trees that Brewer estimates date back at least 100 years.

“When Sara Graves, the last of the family to live in the house, died about 20 years ago at age 96, she told me that when she was a child she looked forward to harvesting those figs,” Brewer said. The figs are "Brown Turkey," a classic old-fashioned variety that produces coppery brown fruit with a light pink interior.

Brewer’s trees are so productive that last year she sent 388 pounds of figs to Anne Quatrano, the proprietress of Bacchanalia, Floataway Cafe, Star Provisions, Quinones and Abattoir. What did Brewer do with the imperfect figs that didn’t merit a place in Quatrano’s kitchen? She and housekeeper Arsie Mae Hardman put up fig preserves. Now, if you’re lucky enough to visit Brewer, she just might serve you a slice of homemade bread with a dollop of those same preserves.

Brewer doesn’t put up all her figs. The squirrels and birds help themselves and Brewer is known to slice some of the crop fresh onto her cereal

"Brown Turkey" and "Celeste" are varieties commonly grown in this area and the ones likely found at a farmers market. But there are dozens of varieties. "Mission" figs, an almost black variety that grows very large and has a tougher skin that makes it easier to ship, might be found at a grocery store. Green "Kadota" figs occasionally appear in the groceries as fresh figs, but most often they’re dried or canned.

Fresh figs are generally available July through September. When you’re buying figs, look for plump, fragrant figs that feel heavy for their size. A perfectly ripe fig will have a slightly puckered skin.

Enjoy your figs right away. Once picked, they won't keep long. Leave the figs at room temperature if you're going to eat them the same day or store them in a refrigerator for up to two days.

The sweet, soft flesh of the fig is nicely offset by salty and piquant flavors. The Georgia Department of Agriculture suggests serving fresh Georgia figs in arugula salads with balsamic vinaigrette, wrapped with prosciutto and grilled, chopped into chicken salad or just eaten by hand at breakfast, accompanied by a little bit of salty bacon or country ham.

At local farmers markets

Cooking demos:

6 p.m. Thursday, Aug.11. Chef Seth Freedman, Ruby Root Connections. East Atlanta Village Farmer's Market, Atlanta.

9:30 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 13. Chef Billy Allin, Cakes & Ale working with figs. Morningside Farmers Market, Atlanta.

10 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 13. Chef Chris Hall, Local Three. Peachtree Road Farmers Market, Atlanta.

For sale

Vegetables and fruit: arugula, beans, beets, blackberries, blueberries, cabbage, cantaloupe, carrots, corn, cucumbers, edamame, eggplant, fennel, field peas, figs, garlic, green onions, herbs, lettuce, mizuna, okra, onions, pea shoots, pears, peppers, potatoes, radishes, spaghetti squash, summer squash, tomatoes, watermelon and specialty melons

From local reports

Stuffed Figs

Hands on: 10 minutes

Total time: 20 minutes

Serves: six appetizer portions

The original version of this recipe called for the figs to be baked and served on crostini. I decided to simplify. Not a fan of goat cheese? Substitute cream cheese for equally delicious results.

4 slices low-sodium bacon, diced

4 ounces goat cheese, room temperature

1 tablespoon chopped pecans

12 figs, stems trimmed, cut in half

1 tablespoon honey

In a large skillet, cook bacon over medium-high heat until crisp, about five minutes. Discard fat, drain bacon and set aside.

In a small bowl, stir together goat cheese, pecans and cooked bacon. Divide mixture into 24 portions and roll into small balls.

Press the center of each fig with a spoon to create a small depression. Place goat cheese ball into depression and arrange on platter. Drizzle with honey and serve immediately.

Adapted from a recipe in Southern Living magazine, Aug. 2010.

Per serving: 201 calories (percent of calories from fat, 41), 8 grams protein, 23 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 10 grams fat (5 grams saturated), 28 milligrams cholesterol, 189 milligrams sodium.